Schumacher CAT XLS Build - Part 1

Schumacher CAT XLS Build - Part 1

Build Part 1

Hi and Welcome to my first ever blog.

Please note:- I have written this blog as additional guidance only. I take no responsibility for your mistakes or injuries caused during the build.

Subject:- Schumacher CAT XLS build blog.

First off, thanks for reading my humble blog.

Then, big thanks to Tamiya Legends for his superb video's on the Schumacher CAT XLS build, which are still available on You Tube. Please watch his video on the CAT XLS build.  I would have had major problems without his help. I would have needed a new body shell and under tray at least. Time and money down the drain.
Although Tamiya Legends helped me with the major build, I still ran into some small  problems.. Hopefully, I can shed further light on the CAT XLS build with my humble words, pictures and maybe offer a small tip or two.

Please note:-  I did not follow the Schumacher manuals build schedule. I know this method will be time and effort saving. If you are uncomfortable with this method, please follow the original Schumacher build manual and schedule.

At the end of this build, or until I can do no more with my limited skill's and tool's, I will write a brief summary on my thoughts of the kit, the build and the finished buggy.

 Thanks for reading, happy building and Merry Christmas.

Please leave a comment.
Thank you.

Build started Christmas Day 2019.

Here we go............

Step 1.

Step 2.

Straight away you are instructed to cut out the body shell under tray. Be very careful as it is NOT covered with protective film and can be easily scratched. DO NOT use a Sharpie pen to follow the cut lines as it is almost impossible to remove. DO NOT DRILL the underside holes yet as they DON'T line up. Take your time...

As you can see from the above picture, I was stupid enough to use a Sharpie. I'm still regretting it....

After lots of trimming, sanding and shaping the tray,  we go back to the build manual. The glass fibre chassis plate will need to be aligned with the under tray (as best as possible).
Three of the four rear drill points were bang on, with another in the middle and one at the front opposite side. Happy days. The chassis plate was central and in the correct position. With a couple of the known good points drilled, I put a nut and bolt in to secure the chassis and under tray. I then drilled from the inside out (using the glass fibre chassis plate as a template) to double ensure the holes were in the correct position. Incorrect positioning of the chassis on the under tray will RUIN your build, waste your time and money.
When positioned correctly, the parts will almost glide in.

Step 3.
I test fitted the rear housing and belt to ensure alignment from front to back. All is good. Happy days!!

I then removed all the parts from the under tray, to get it ready for paint.

Important note.

REMEMBER TO USE Tamiya PS paints NOT Tamiya TS paints. PS is for polycarb body shells and TS is for plastic. DO NOT USE TS PAINTS on polycarbonate body shells. ALWAYS USE PS PAINTS on polycarbonate body shells. Don't waste your time and money. It will not dry properly and will flake off over time without any doubt and without any aid. I have previously been found guilty of this crime, but only the once. It's an expensive mistake and easy to make. They should have flashing lights above the PS and TS paint sections with a person asking questions about their selection of PS or TS paints. 

 I am aiming for box art paint so, I used Tamiya PS-6 paint as advised by Tamiya-Legends.A really vibrant yellow.

If you look close enough, you may be able to see the original dimple points for drilling, or what is left of them. Not far off,  I hear you say. It's far enough to ensure calamity down the line. Also you can see the dreaded Sharpie....doh!!!

It looks really good, almost a Lotus Elise Norfolk yellow. NICE!!

Step 4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,16 and 17, Please follow the manual.

Please note:- In steps 6 to 9, be very careful and liberal with your super glue. Keep the glue within the area advised in the manual.

In step 10,  the universal joints are difficult to put together. Clean your hands, parts from grease with soapy water and rinse properly. Dry and assemble them as instructed in the manual.

In steps 16 and 17, be very careful and liberal with your super glue. Keep it in the area advised in the manual.

The picture above is up to stage 18, without the glass fibre top deck and clear belt cover. This is to ease the installation of the front differential. In this picture you can see I have removed the battery clips. I have done this as I will be using velcro strap's if I ever decide to run it.

As I informed you in the description, I have not followed the instruction manual build schedule. I skipped from step 12 and went to step 16, 17 and 18 (front differential(page 13 & 14)).

Step 13.
Cut out and shape the clear drive belt cover. Test fit it over the belt ensuring it has full coverage of where it needs to fit. Ensure you have the rear drill points in their correct position (ensuring the front is as near as possible and central. Drill the rear drive belt cover holes and use the correct screws from the bag to secure the cover. Using the glass fibre upper deck as a template, drill the four front holes in the belt cover. This will ensure the whole chassis will line up, be true and not hinder the front differential attachment, via the four bolts fitted from the underside. These bolts are fitted at a later stage in the build.

Step 14.
Solder the ball joints to the sway bar. Tip, Use some sand paper to take off the shine of the roll bar, this will make the solder adhere a lot easier. Also be careful for a long time after soldering, as it will still be HOT.

Step 15.
Fit the plastic sway bar holders to the top deck.
The belt cover does not have cut lines on it for the sway bar, so now is an ideal time to mark one out. There is a drawing in the manual on page 12. Remove the belt cover and glass fibre top deck. Drill or cut the belt cover to clear the sway bar as shown in the manual.

If you are follow THIS build schedule, we have previously completed step's 16, 17 and 18, please go to step 19 in the build manual. If you are following the SCHUMACHER build schedule, please go to step 16 in the build manual.

Step 19A. follow the build manual and ensure the front four bolts (going through everything are left loose.
Step 19B. Adjust the rear belts first using the eccentric bearing holders on the rear drive shaft's (see manual, page 16). Then tighten the main drive belt and lock it off with the four front bolts. Check the motion and running of the gears. If it is all clear, it should be almost silent.

Step 20. Follow the build manual. The buggy above is at stage 20 with the glass fibre top deck, clear belt cover and all belts tightened.

Step's 21 to 28. Please follow the manual.

    The above picture's are of progress up to step 28.

Steps 28, 29, 30, 31, 32,33, and 34 Please follow the manual.

The above picture is up to step 34.

Step 35. (REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS) I would strongly advise buying a set of "C" clip pliers BEFORE attempting to build up the shock absorbers. There is a tiny c-clip that holds everything in place at the bottom of the shock body, which needs to be inserted in the correct orientation (SEE MANUAL PAGE 33)

The above picture shows the scale of the c-clip.

The picture above shows the c-clip inserted correctly into the shock body.

Step 36. Please follow the manual.

Step 37. After fitting the bottom ball joint to the end of the shocker, we can now fill up the shocker with the correct damping oil. Rear oil is 550 cSt weight. Assemble the remaining parts as shown in the manual.

The above picture show the two completed rear shock and spring assemblies. Check the motion of the whole assembly. They should be very, very smooth.
Beautiful looking shocks.

Steps 38,39 and 40. (FRONT SHOCK ABSORBERS). Again you will need a set of c-clip pliers to complete the assembly. The front shock are simply a repeat of the rear shocks however a different grade damping oil that is specified and supplied. Front oil is 400cSt weight.

Steps 41,42,43,44, 45A,45B,46,47 and 48, Please follow the manual.

In step 48, you are required to cut out and fit the rear wing. Beware, there is NO PROTECTIVE FILM on the wing. TIP:- I used masking tape to ensure the shape was correct. On the side wings I also used masking tape, I then marked out and used a compass to shape the bottom of the side wings. Be careful and take your time.

The above picture shows the rear wing after cutting and sanding into shape. Again, take your time.

Steps 49 and 50. I have not yet decided to run the buggy or not, so I have not yet installed any electronics as advised in the above stages. Therefore I do not have any information in fitting them. If , I decide to run the buggy, I will update the blog to include the electronic installation at a later date.

Step 51. Take the wheels and tyres from the box and fit the tyres over the wheels. They are quite difficult to fit, so do a little at a time. When complete, fit the wheels to the buggy using the hex bolts that are provided.

Step 52. Time to cut out the body shell. Do this in a manner you are comfortable with. Some like to use trimming scissors, some a knife, it's your decision. I personally use a pair of scissors to take off the excess plastic, then use a  Stanley knife to score the body near the cut line (snap it off) and then sand it to the required position. There is further guide (in part 2), to help with the painting and masking of the buggy.

The above picture shows the top body shell roughly cut out. I will now sand and shape to give a smooth finish.


Thank you for reading.

I hope to join me in Part 2 - Paint 2020


0misaldes_wa Cyndi Peacock Awesome
Catxls said…
Thanks man! It means a lot!