Team Associated RC10 4WD Part 2 "The Build"

 Team Associated RC10 4WD Part 2 

"The Build"

Hello fellow RC enthusiasts from around the World. I hope you are well.

Welcome to the build of the Team Associated RC10 4WD.

I know I said I was waiting until Christmas until I started the build but unfortunately I couldn't wait any longer LOL, I am far too excited to wait. 

I have been ordering some upgrade parts for the car including (this list will change and increase as we go along) some Punch Dragon carbon fibre shock towers and a new rear wing bracket which was originally designed for the RB6 (I think). I am also thinking of buying the chassis stiffening upgrades and the big bore suspension upgrades just incase I race this buggy. However, both of these upgrades are quite expensive so they may be done after the car is built.

This post will be updated after every build section as I will not be doing the build within a day, so please keep coming back for further updates...

OK let me begin...

I got the box on my bench and dug out bag "A"

I also took the small bag of tools out of the box.

The instruction manual also stated that I will need the iconic gold pan to start the build so I got that from the box. 

The build of the car also requires some locktight, of which I have got from another kit.

I put the contents of bag "A" inside of the chassis pan and familiarized myself with both the parts and page 5 on the manual.

Having studied the parts from bag "A" and the manual, I was happy to go ahead.

Above is a picture of the ball studs, bolts, bearings and washers required for steps 1 and 2.

Above is a picture of step 1 complete with the nose of the chassis connected to the gold pan. I have also attached the body post with the bolt and 3 washers as required in step 1. The 2 bolts that connect the nose of the chassis and the gold pan have been fixed in place with the application of lock tight. Step 1 is now complete.

Above is a picture of the parts required in step 2.

Step 2 requires the insertion of the 4 bearings into the plastic arms as you can see above.

Above is a picture of the ball studs inserted into the arms as per the instructions in step 2. This is when I ran into the first problem. Although the kit is supplied with some hex keys, none of them fit the ball studs, so I had to find a hex key in my tools which fitted them. Once I had found a suitable hex key, I inserted the ball studs as described in step 2. 

With the bearing and the ball studs fitted to the arms, the instructions describe the fitting of the arms to the chassis. This is when I ran into another problem. The ball stud is too long and will not let the steering arm travel (as can be seen in the picture above(sorry about the quality of the image)) across the chassis.

The picture above shows that the right hand (or the top arm in the picture above) arm cannot move over the chassis. I am going to have to remove the arms. The left (or bottom arm in the picture also has ball studs that are too long but this arm can actually move. In both cases the ball studs will drag across the gold pan chassis and scratch it. The solution to the problem will be to remove both of the arms and grind away the excess length of the ball stud. Whilst watching videos of other people building this buggy, I was made aware of this problem and had prepared myself to run into the problem however, I did not expect the ball studs to be as long as I have found. To be honest, I find this error/mistake quite unacceptable considering the cost of the kit. You would not find this kind of error with the likes of a Schumacher or a Kyosho kit.

The ball studs (picture above) after they had been on the grinding wheel and being relieved of the excess metal. Once the excess material had been removed from the ball studs, I once again installed the steering arms back onto the gold pan chassis, this time without the ball studs catching the iconic gold pan chassis.

 

With bag "A" now complete (except for the turnbuckle) I could now turn my full attention back to the rest of the build.

Now I am instructed to open bag "B" (pictured above).

Now with bag "B" open, I removed the parts containing the diffs shown above.

Above you can see the ball diff carbide balls and the diff centre shaft. I have already greased the centre shaft thrust bearings with the black grease.

With the parts for the ball diffs removed from the parts bag I followed step 1 as shown in the picture below.

Steps 1 to 3 (above) of the diff assembly shown in the manual.

In the picture above you can see how I inserted the carbide differential balls.

After following steps 1,2 and 3, I had fully completed the front and rear differentials.

At the end of building the ball differentials, there is a part in the manual (above) that describes how to set up the differentials to allow for different handling characteristics. I set a tighter front differential in comparison to the rear differential which will result in there being more "on power" to the front wheels during cornering and giving better steering under power.  

 

That is the end of the build for today guy's,  but please join me again tomorrow for further progress.

Until then please take care.